Prater...again

At the Albertina Museum

So long, farewell...

We're heading out to the airport in the early morning but before I emerge in the USA I wanted to give a quick shout out to the people at Figls in Grinzing. OMG. That pretzel alone was worth the 38 tram ride. What a beautiful spot and what a gorgeous area of Vienna! Wishing we went there sooner. Alyssa, Hugh- thank you again for the recommendation. And Alyssa, thank you (I think) for introducing me to that crazy book THE WALL. Upon completion of it, I realize that I would absolutely be worthless if left alone in the wilderness in a hunting lodge with a dog, some stray cats and cows. What would McGruber do? I do have a burning desire to learn how to milk a cow now. Do they offer that sort of thing at the Children's Home?

The students left this morning and after packing my stuff and cleaning up after their messes, I am very nostalgic for this beautiful city already. Very grateful for this opportunity but now I am ready to come home. Since I had the pig knee a second time around, I am not craving BBQ in NC as I thought I would. Strangely, it is the Whole Foods salad bar that calls me. Actually, that's not strange. Pickled cabbage has counted as my solid vegetable for several weeks now...

Evie is a champion travel eater. Yesterday, in Bratislava, we sat down with her at a McDonalds to get her a softserve vanilla icecream. She took a few bites, smiled and then said to my mom and I: "This is a nice dinner!" Yeah... but seriously, I think she gets the joy of eating out. Tonight on our way out of Figls she said "Thanks for dinner, mom". Thank you, Evie... for everything these last five weeks. And thanks to those of you who read this. Can't wait to be home! xo

Pictures to follow!

Some observations, or the "how come..." questions:

...lettuce is so cheap here?
...a beer costs 5x less than a coke?
...so many people smoke?
...the public transportation system is based on the honor code?
...there are beer gardens next to playgrounds.
...there is starbucks here?! Julius Meinl, I am so sorry.
...pork knee tastes so good?
...live dance performances are sold out consistently?

This is a growing list. More later...we're off to the Albertina now! But quickly- my weekend at Impulstanz with Risa Steinberg was so inspiring. I can only hope I'm that wise someday.
Jeffrey - we look forward to seeing you soooooooooon!

body sore

Oh yes...I'm sore. But not from dancing. It's the bed. It has caught up with me...my neck is outta whack. My hips hurt. I wake up and don't feel rested. Wahhhhhhhhh.

Post-show tonight (strobe lights, techno music...ah, make it stop!) in the MQ we hit a pizza stand and I didn't know this but I think I prefer salami on my pizza more than pepperoni.

More important news: I think I shall buy the bag from Turek. And maybe a dress I've been eyeing at Zara.

Evie, Mom, and I hit the Merkur markt big time today...and for the second time in a row, I've gotten these cards in a plastic package at the end of the whole paying/bagging scenario (which is always fraught with issues...oh no, I need one more bag! Oh no, everyone else is such a faster packer than we are! Oh no, I forgot the diapers! Be right back...!) Anyways, these plastic cards...are they coupons, Alyssa? They look like fun silly little flashcards but she gives them out to everyone, whether they have an Evie or not.
Jeffrey-- remind me about cords I need to take home at some point, ok?

Back to reading the Wall. Alyssa, can I find this wall in Grinzing perhaps if I drink too much wine? PEARL! Noooooooooooooooo! Why did you have to go out and roam in the warm weather!? And for god sake, stop using the matches so frivolously.
Which reminds me- Grinzing...dinner at Figl is a must before we go but a reservation.... Do I need one?
Jeffrey...taking mom and Evie to the Vapiano at Mariahilfer for lunch tomorrow...

Here's a random picture of Evie.

christina, evie, yiayia and pooh.

winnie the pooh, nooooooooooo!

Hello again. I have some more pictures of Evie (which is really what you want) and a few more anecdotes to share. First- our Sunday visit to the Greek church in the Schwedenplatz area was slightly late but we lit candles for all of our families and even met the German/Greek priest. We lingered a bit but then got hungry so we looked for Greek food. After meandering a bit, we were treated to a tremendous meal at a Greek restaurant called Retsina. Mom's moussaka was as "good as it gets" (highest possible praise from YiaYia) and my chicken souvlaki and tzaziki was equally strong. Evie loved the bread most of all. We played at a nearby park afterwards where Evie now is simply fearless on whatever equipment she encounters. I have not yet arrived at "fearless" in watching her, but maybe I'll get there soon. Jeffrey - it will be interesting to see how she tackles the Hanes park "big kids" side when we get back.
After the park, we made our way to the Museum Quartier and visited the Museum of Fine Arts. We blitzed through the highly touted coin and jewelry exhibit (gold coins, hmm. Seen em...), spent a little more time at the Egyptian sarcophagi, and then found the gold mine: the Jan Fabre paintings amidst the Vermeer, Titian, and Rubens biblical art section. Jan Fabre, a contemporary choreographer whose work is also showing at Impulstanz, has an exhibit at the Kunst historisches museum too. Talk about impressive. Speaking of impressive- I now mention the Palmenhaus, where we went after for a 3.75 eu cappuccino. (Jeffrey- remember the Palmenhaus? Next to the Schmetteriling haus? We never went last year but wished we had...and upon leaving, I wished I had an occasion to go back there for a beer with you. Someday.)
The new week began with a new schedule at Impulstanz and history here with the students. 8:30am is my history class, then I get to play with Evie and Yiayia until I leave around 1:45 for my 3 hour text and movement class with a former Bostonian now living in Germany, Tony Rizzi. Rizzi danced for William Forsythe for years and years. Interesting and funny dude. Mom and I went to the Naschmarkt today and the Succession Museum. This lovely day almost took a turn for the worst when Evie dropped her winnie the pooh doll down the U-2 tracks when we were getting off the train. Fortunately, we were at the end of the U2, at Karlsplatz, and so the nice driver (who Evie kept calling the police officer) took his grabby tool with the long neck (which Evie called the alligator) and returned Pooh to its rightful (and sobbing owner). We couldn't stop saying Danke Schön..
Evie loved the Klimt mural in the Succession that represents Wagner's interpretation of Beethoven's 9th symphony. Truly...she kept saying "there's the monkey!" and looked at it for longer than I anticipated she would. Our lunch in Naschmarkt was divine- humus and falafel, fresh tuna sandwiches, greek olives, and we devoured this amazing gouda and brie cheeses I bought at a cheese stand. Today I had a thought --what if the Naschmarkt was transported to Winston's dixie classic fair area? OMG.
There are two remaining performances to attend with the students this week: on Monday night we saw Ultima Vez's rendition of Oedipus Rex (WOW) and tomorrow, we'll see Marie Choinard, from Montreal. Ciao. pictures soon.

phew, I made it in again before August!

hi all,

Sending love and kisses and here's hoping the Tsoules fam, Soriano's, Slippy's, and Fitzpatricks are also reading this, and not just my friends Hugh and Alyssa. Regardless, Evie and I miss you all and think of you often.
I apologize for my dreadful lapse in blogging. Err, what can I say?! I started teaching dance history and didn't stop dancing at Impulstanz and so naturally, something had to give, and unfortunately, the blogging suffered. I know you are all devastated. (Jeffrey...) But it's Saturday night and I'm blogging! So there. And there are pictures.

Evie, Mom and I have been navigating our way through this remarkable city in leaps and bounds whenever possible. Evie is a travel pro. Truly. Much of my time during the week is spent without them by my side as I'm furiously dancing at Impulstanz, trying to be about 15 years younger than I am and keeping up with my students on the dance floor, or teaching my dance history class here at the Wake Forest Flow House, or taking students to dance performances throughout the city so my time with Evie and mom is limited. Generally, the weekends have provided me with a chance to be with a tourist and go and explore with stroller and a grandmother in tow. But next weekend I have registered for a killer dance workshop at Impulstanz- four classes in 2 days with a very famous Limon teacher (what was I thinking?!?!?) so we're trying to be very active this weekend here in Wien. Anyways, during the week, while I'm working, Evie has a very special daycare experience with YiaYia. Evie and I are very well fed (see photos of a typical weeknight meal of Irene's-- roasted lamb shank with greek style green beans, rice cooked in the lamb juice, and zucchini-- it was so easy, she insisted!). Mom makes my lunch for me in the morning and sends me off with it when I leave for Impulstanz- always with extra cookies too. I feel like a little kid opening my lunchbox. I'm spoiled! The one hour commute each way from our house to the Impulstanz workshops are pleasant but I have stopped looking out the window at the 40A to the D to Subdanhof and daydreaming and now I have begun doing some reading of all those past NY Times magazines that I brought. It's such a delight...some are as dated as Feb. 2010...and Jeffrey wanted me to throw those out! I have to say, I feel slightly guilty as my students are often with me on the bus or tram, reading their homework for my class while I read a magazine. Oh well, I already read the books they are reading.

Now back to our lives. Our apartment is in the basement, and it is quite comfortable and accommodating. Again-largely b/c of the goodies and toys Hugh and Alyssa left us from their stay here last fall semester. Besides the fact that my bed here is NOT my new king size tempurpedic at home in Winston, we are really set. We are very close to an easy and frequent bus line which gets us pretty much anywhere in the city. The Flow House was gifted to Wake in 1999 by the Flow family (Nicole- remember FLOW Honda in Winston?) and it's a huge 6 bedroom house with a classroom, formal living and dining room, sweeping staircase, majestic foyer and a wrought iron gate around the perimeter. The house is in a shi shi neighborhood and is like one of those gated houses on Salisbury Street you know is there but you've never actually seen (sorry, Worcester reference) or like one of the houses in San Anselmo who is a neighbor to Sean Penn when he lived there with Robin Wright. Within this gate, Evie has delighted in riding around her new red motorcycle from YiaYia- a gift from the toy store on Worringerstrasse. We call it her "beep beep" even though it doesn't make any beeping sounds. All of us growing up called these sorts of things 'beep beeps' and when I realized early last year that not EVERYONE called them beep beeps I was rather alarmed. Anyways, Evie steers it around like a real pro and of course, is a speed demon. She also can take it to nearby Turkenshanz park for some high class playground action. Yiayia usually takes her there post-nap in the afternoon. Or they venture to one of our many wonderful supermarkets together. But lately, the weather has been cold and dreary, oten rainy or about to rain. Then you'll have a nice day but it's cold. I know I shouldn't complain, esp. as the New Englanders had such a heat wave recently and in July in NC, well, it's never cold. But I'd like to wear a sundress this summer.

Today we went shopping in several different neighbors: Worringerstrasse (Alyssa- I have grown to love this area, esp. the outdoor farmer's market vendors!), then to Swedenplatz where my favorite store I think, Turek, lured me in with this gorgeous bag (it may have to be my present to myself), then to St. Stephens where we hit EVERY shop: Zara, H and M, Salamander, UC of B, and others. I tried on shoes and boots but in the end, Evie made out the best with clothes from the sale racks. Mom and I picked up a few gifts (Vom Fass, again!) and ate lunch at a lovely fish market/restaurant called NORDSEE. I got the shrimp scampi. Of course, YiaYia Irene's is better but it was still rather yummy. Mom got a fried fish that Evie also ate. Oh, and Jeffrey- Evie is your daughter...she loved my shrimp. She is also my daughter, as she loved her ice scream that we got in Swedenplatz. The chocolate face below is your indication...the ice scream sundaes we got will not appear in photos lest you all call us piggies.

Tomorrow morning, we are heading to one of the Greek churches here, built in 1861. Byzantium period architecture. Gold everywhere. We'll report back about the greeks in Austria. Post-church it will be a museum and then to the Prater. More horsies and gotta hit that carousel for YiaYia. AND MORE OF THAT PORK KNEE. Music to my ears. Some recent pics are below, ciao for now! No - I didn't buy those green shoes but my mom did. Just kidding.

Later in the week, we'll take that boat to Bratislava (Slovakia's capital, and a 1.5 hour boat ride down the Danube.) That way, mom can say she went to two countries while nannying for a summer. :) Oh, and that picture of Jeffrey eating a pork knee bone is posted one a wall of fame at the Prater restaurant among restaurant patrons who "ate the most pork knee in one setting." that's MY man!

12 Days in Europe: A Bier Retrospective

So, that's Frankfurt

Stuck for two days in Frankfurt during the Women's World Cup because of a cancelled flight. The town was futbol crazy.

This was on the U-bahn to the stadium for the final.

Jeffrey leaving ;(

s


Tomorrow, Evie and I will say bye bye to Daddy/Jeffrey. We are sad to say the least.
I know the remaining time will fly but we'll still be "off kilter" without our Jeffrey around. Mom arrives Monday, and we can't wait! I keep seeing places and thinking "must take mom here" . Mom- if you're reading this-- can you bring me some extra dental floss?

I thought I'd include a couple of pictures from our last couple of days...Jeffrey with the Austrian BALINTAWAK crew, me at the Rathaus and yummy food. Oh, and Evie of course--here she is driving a car at the Prater, and with Dad in the lounge space where I am performing.

Last night we went to see LaLaLa Human Steps from Canada perform at the Volkstheatre. Despite the fact that our seats were a partially obstructed view, it was quite impressive. Contemporary ballet work that was fast fast fast the entire time. Exhaustingly fast. Wonder what the students thought? Probably should ask them. Probably should get my first lecture ready too. I teach on Monday! Anyways, after the show, Jeffrey and I roamed through the Rathaus platz and nibbled on fried smelts before making our way back. Again and again, we find ourselves just tickled with this city and how groovy it is. It's really an amazing place to be, even as a non-German speaker.

Earlier in the afternoon yesterday , Jeffrey spent more time training with his balintawak friends from Austria- Richard and crew- and yesterday morning we had a glorious breakfast at Salettl (which means gazebo, thanks Alyssa!) - a nearby restaurant overlooking the nearby Vienna hills. See picture for yumminess.

Today is a tough day. The city seems to be shutting down (including my performance space- where I hoped to fit in a rehearsal, drat) because a famous son, the descendant of a monarch, died...info below if anyone cares. http://www.monstersandcritics.com/news/europe/news/article_1649046.php/Otto-von-Habsburg-son-of-last-Austro-Hungarian-monarch-dead
Whether or not we attempt to hit the nearby wine area of Grinzing remains to be seen....

update on the students...

Oh yeah, I have to teach here this summer!

Well the students are slowly arriving, in various conditions.
One student missed her flight from DC. OUCH. She gets here tomorrow now instead.
Another student arrived without his luggage. His airline, EASY JET, can't even promise that they will deliver it to him. He has to pick it up somewhere tomorrow.
My local cell phone and the Resident Assistant's phone are both not working, which was perfect, especially since I was on the phone with my Impulstanz contact, trying to finalize the dance concert ticket package for my group. Sweet.
Otherwise, no complaints.
Today we ate the famed pork knee. Oh, and it was fabulous. A picture says a thousand words. Evie loved the Prater amusement park where our restaurant was too...check her out petting the ponies that pulled the carousel. Yep, they have LIVE ponies pulling their carousels in Europe.

even more pics...

more pics

More on Salzburg, More on Wien.

Salzburg! It was like a perfect postcard! I knew we were heading to the Alps and to the music hills but we were pretty blown away by how beautiful, majestic and all around breathtaking the city was. The view from our hotel, Schone Ausicht- only a 3 star may I add-- was stunning. Thank you trip advisor.com for the rec.
The restaurant at our hotel also deserves a shout out. The pils they poured, called Trumer- unique to Salzburg- was out of this world. We drank it often. But most of all, I feel we drank up the views. So many different spots to look out and see something beautiful. Our adventures began on Sunday when we took the train to Salzburg- Evie, Jeffrey and I joined a car with a lovely four year old girl named Isis (the second little girl named Isis I have met in Vienna and I can't help but think of the only other Isis I ever knew- my friend Erin's grandmother named Isis, who was a spitfire. Both Erin and said grandmother are spitfires that matter but I digress)... Isis and her mommy Karen were delightful and the train ride was a blast. When we arrived at our hotel, climbing up a very tall and windy road surrounded by trees, away from the downtown and up deep into the hills, knew we were in for a treat. Yet it was only about 10 minutes from old town! Score! We got there around 2pm and after looking out our balcony to one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen with a pool below it (oh, and with Trumers in hand) we knew we would stay put that day. After swimming, we showered and dined at the hotel restaurant (beef cheeks for J, and Evie and I wolfed down delicious trout with risotto). Oh and I tried their Reisling for a change of pace. Jeffrey of course had more Trumer.

Visiting the old town was the next day's agenda after the yummy breakfast (mmmm- ham for breakfast! And nutella! Evie approved!) Strolling through the old town was divine and minus the puking event (was it the cashews? the warm grapes? we'll never know...) we had a great day. Evie was enamored with the puppet museum in the fortress, she loved crossing the river, eating pretzels, and shopping along the cobble streets. She didn't love our donner sandwiches that night for dinner, but ate animal crackers instead. I get the parent nutritioan

This morning we overslept but hustled out the door to head to WUK to see my performance space. It's small but beautiful. We'll make it work! From the WUK (at Volks Oper) we headed to shop. Started in the Schwedenplatz for lunch and then made our way to Stephansdom for some H&M, Zara, Turek shopping..everyone got a special new article of clothing and some gelato.

Trying to get back to the Flow House was tough today..we got frustrated trying to find the 40A bus from Schotentor. I think we were off a stop. Evie was a trooper- it was J and I who wanted to have a temper tantrum. Four various public transportation devices later, we were back at the Flow. Where's the TRUMER?

Date night tonight! Thank you to Brooke, the RA for graciously babysitting. We will hit the Rathaus for sure, and dinner someplace fancy beforehand. I may even look presentable for the occasion. Pictures below. More from me after the students arrive at various times tomorrow! I will take them to dinner at Fisher Brau (a local joint) and Brooke will do some orienting along the way. Jeffrey will meet up with his martial arts friend. I am so wishing I spoke German...

As I write, Evie is playing the guitar upstairs in the living room. We're pressing on and going on an adventure (like Dora the Explorer!) every chance we can. Cheers!